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Your guide to hiking

  • Writer: Bill Bartlett
    Bill Bartlett
  • Jun 19
  • 15 min read

Hiking in Sisters Country is unforgettable. With close to a half million acres and a thousand miles of mapped, single-path trails that delight with tumbling waterfalls, steep canyons, roaring rivers, snow-covered peaks, and bucolic meadows, it doesn’t get much better. Come for a day or stay for a week. You will not come close to experiencing all that we offer. Want more? Of course you do!

Here are some memorable hikes from among dozens of possibilities. Each one is a fun-filled, photo-packed outing with picnic option.



The Metolius River in Camp Sherman, Oregon.
The Metolius River in Camp Sherman, Oregon.

Rivers and Waterfalls

1.     The Metolius (half day) – easy

About the Hike: The Metolius, most magical of all Oregon rivers, emerges fully grown at 50,000 gallons a minute from the arid base of Black Butte. Sample the river's wizardry with this easy hike along a section of the oasis-like riverbank. The trail passes sudden springs, reveals colorful bird life and leads to a wonderfully visitable fish hatchery.

Difficulty: Easy to moderate depending on section

Season: Open all year, except in winter storms.

Getting There: Start by driving Highway 20 west of Sisters 9 miles (or east of Santiam Pass 10 miles). Just west of Black Butte, near milepost 91, turn north at a sign for the Metolius River. Drive straight on paved Road 1419, ignoring a right-hand fork after 2.5 miles labeled "Campgrounds."

At a stop sign at the 4.8-mile mark, continue straight onto Road 1420. Keep going straight for another 3.3 miles. Then turn right at a sign for Canyon Creek Campground and drive 1 mile to the West Metolius Trailhead, beside the river at the far end of the campground (GPS location N44°30.054' W121°38.466').

Fees/Permits: None.

Restrictions: None

(Source: Oregon.com)

2.     The Deschutes (variable) – easy to moderate

About the Hike: When locals talk about the scenic Deschutes River Trail, they’re typically referring to one of two trails that line the Deschutes River—but which are disconnected from each other. Either way, you’ll find unique landscapes and plenty to love about each trail.

The northernmost of the two major sections begins in the heart of Bend and covers about 12 miles while meandering through the city’s urban landscapes, heading into a rimrock canyon, and passing under a canopy of ponderosa pine trees. Broadly speaking, this stretch of trail runs from Riley Ranch Nature Reserve in northern Bend to a footbridge just south of the Old Mill District; several footbridges along the way let hikers and trail runners cross the river to create loops and shorten their route as necessary. Occasional Cascade peaks provide a powerful backdrop against the cityscapes below.

The second of the two most popular Deschutes River Trails sits closer to Sunriver and

offers a more remote experience away from the hustle and bustle of Bend. This stretch,

popular with hikers and mountain bikers, covers lava flows, old-growth pine forests,

waterfalls, and raging rapids in the Deschutes River—like Big Eddy (popular with

whitewater rafters), Dillon Falls, Benham Falls, and Lava Falls. This loop totals about 17

miles round-trip, and several trailheads make it easy to choose the right length for you.

Difficulty: Easy to moderate depending on section

Season: Open all year, except in winter storms.

Getting There: In Bend, a flat, paved (wheelchair-accessible) stretch of the Deschutes

River Trail can be accessed at the Old Mill District—roughly one mile south of downtown Bend via NW Wall St., SW Industrial Way, and SW Bond St.

For the southernmost stretch, the Benham Falls West Trailhead (a popular jumping-off

point for that portion of the path) is 13 miles south of Bend via SW Century Drive, Conklin Road/Forest Road 41, and Forest Road 400.Fees/Permits: None.

Restrictions: Horses and bikes are prohibited on the Bend-based Deschutes River Trail— and are prohibited on certain sections of the trail closer to Sunriver.

(Source: Oregon.com)

3.     Crooked River (variable) – easy to moderate

About the Hike: In all the Crooked River and its trails cover about 125 miles of stunning opportunity for every hiker ability. The most popular are the ones through Smith Rock and near Crooked River Ranch.

Our favorite: Chimney Rock. Take a break from your scenic drive along the Lower Crooked Wild and Scenic River south of Prineville and hike one of the gems of the High Desert. Walk in the shadows of lichen-covered basalt cliffs as you zigzag up and out of the river canyon to spectacular views of Central Oregon.

The trek is about 1.3 miles each way and ends at the namesake chimney basalt rock formation. Pause on one of the benches along the way for a drink of water and just absorb the beauty of the area before heading back to your car and the rest of your travels.

Difficulty: Easy to moderate

Season: Open all year but may be snow covered in winter months.

Getting There: Begin the 37-mile out-and-back journey in the historic community of Prineville. Start at Rimrock City Park and follow the Crooked River south out of town, with picturesque views of the surrounding llama farms and cattle ranches.

The route leaves the pastures behind as it enters the Crooked River Canyon. The road slips through the canyon’s towering basalt cliffs, gently curving and climbing to a scenic view near Palisades Campground before descending back toward the river. Plenty of picnic tables, campgrounds and even a viewing deck.

The final stretch of the Crooked River Scenic Byway continues through the canyon and passes by several other day-use sites and campgrounds. Observant hikers might spot resident wildlife like deer, great blue herons and golden eagles. The byway ends at Big Bend Campground, which has parking, restrooms, water and power.

Fees/Permits: None

Restrictions: None


4.     McKenzie Waterfalls (half day) - easy

Make a day outing to the waterfalls trail. Head west on Highway 20, and at the junction with Highway 126 (National Scenic Byway), follow it and the well-marked signs to the pristine McKenzie River’s Sahalie Falls with a spacious parking lot. Sahalie Falls is a mass of foaming white water plunging 100 feet over a natural lava dam. This famous falls can be spotted in Disney’s “Homeward Bound.”

The Sahalie Falls viewing platform is less then 100 feet from the parking lot and is wheelchair accessible. An easy and wildly scenic 2.6-mile roundtrip trail brings you downriver to Koosah Falls, a 70-foot drop into a deep pool.

These falls mark the terminus of two thick flows of basaltic andesite lava that dammed Clear Lake and moved into the McKenzie River 3,000 years ago. 

Sahalie, meaning “heaven,” and Koosah, meaning “sky,” are Chinook jargon words — part of a rudimentary trade language that allowed people to exchange news and goods in the area. The Kalapuya, Molalla, Sahaptin, and Chinook peoples traveled and traded here, perhaps on their way to obtain obsidian in the high Cascades or to gather huckleberries.

Both sites feature parking, interpretive panels that tell the story of area geology, restrooms, and observation points.

Next stop is Proxy Falls by continuing down Highway 126 to the junction of Highway 242 (McKenzie Highway). Make the only turn and drive nine miles to the trailhead for the splendid 1.6-mile loop trail.

Proxy Falls is a cascade and plunge waterfall from a collection of springs that plunges into a gaping canyon near McKenzie Pass. The waterfall sports an impressive main drop of 226 feet, which makes it one of the highest plunge waterfalls in Oregon.

Continue the loop by driving Highway 242 all the way back to Sisters with a stop at Dee Wright Observatory.


Peak Experiences

  1. Black Butte (half day) – moderate to difficult 

About the Hike: Plunked amid the Central Oregon plateau, Black Butte looks like a misplaced mountain. A steep but view-packed trail climbs 1.9 miles to the panoramic summit, gaining 1,600 feet of elevation. The last portion of this route is difficult enough that it is not generally recommended for hikers with children.

Still, it's surprising how many kids enjoy the climb because they view it as a challenge.

Difficulty: A moderate, 3.6-mile loop to the headland's tip gains 900 feet of elevation.

Season: Open all year but may be snow covered in winter months.

Getting There: Drive Highway 22 west of Sisters 5.5 miles (or east of Santiam Pass 13.5 miles) to Indian Ford Campground, near milepost 95. Turn north onto paved Green Ridge Road 11. After 3.8 miles, turn left onto gravel Road 1110 for 5.1 miles to a parking area at the road's end.

Fees/Permits: A Northwest Forest Pass is required to park here. The pass costs $5 per day or $30 per season. It can be purchased at a ranger station, an outdoor store or at the trailhead fee box.

Restrictions: None

Source: Oregon.com

2.     South Sister (full day) – difficult

About the Hike: You can walk right up to the top of Oregon’s third tallest peak. However, the trail up 10,358-foot South Sister is exceedingly steep, long and rugged, but no technical climbing skills are required, and the rewards are great.

From the summit - a broad, snowy crater with a small lake - you can see half the state. If this sounds too demanding, here's a secret: the loop to Moraine Lake, halfway up the mountain, is just as picturesque. This lower hike avoids the final trudge up cinder scree yet still offers views 100 miles south to Mount McLoughlin. What's more, the weather's better here. The summit often generates its own little cloud, complete with whiteouts, wind, and a miniature blizzard.

Difficulty: Strenuous. 12.5 miles roundtrip in 7-10 hours starting at 5,453 feet and ending at 10,358 feet. Average speed is 1.8 mph.

Season: Open August to mid-October, but do not attempt the summit climb in anything but perfect weather. If there is a cloud on the summit, even on an otherwise sunny day, hikers

could well encounter a blizzard whiteout at the top.

Getting There: Drive 28.5 miles west of Bend on the Cascade Lakes Highway. Beyond the Mount Bachelor Ski Area 6.5 miles, turn left at a Devils Lake Trailhead sign and park at the end of the campground loop.

Fees/Permits: A Northwest Forest Pass is required to park here. The pass costs $5 per day or $30 per season. It can be purchased at a ranger station, an outdoor store or at the trailhead fee box.

How to: For a one-day summer scramble to the summit, cross the highway (5,450 feet) and proceed up the South Sisters climbers trail. It goes between Devils Hill and Kaleetan Butte.

The trail leaves the forest after 1.5 miles and intersects a second trail. Moraine Lake is to the right (east), and Wickiup Plain is to the left (west).

Ignore both and proceed north across a sparsely wooded plateau known as "the golf

course." About three miles from the trail head, the trail becomes a climber's path. Continue north toward the Lewis Glacier on steep scree. Near 8,800 feet, at the western edge of the Lewis’ terminal moraine, skirt the glacier on its left, passing one of the highest lakes in the region.

Follow the south ridge 1,400 feet up a slope of red volcanic scree. At the top of the slope, proceed to climber's right, around the eastern rim to the true summit on the northeastern side.

Warning: Do not attempt this hike without knowing the risks.

  1. Trappers Butte & Scar Mountain (full day) - difficult

About the Hike: The Scar Mountain Trail is part of the Old Cascade Crest trail system and even though it is a spectacular trail with epic views, this trail is seldom used. This is a serious outing, but not extreme. Beware of steep drop offs and rocky footing at the Scar Mountain summit.

Difficulty: A moderate to difficult trek, 6 miles round trip w/ 1,670 ft. elevation gain (to Trappers Butte summit).

10.6 miles round trip w/ 3,000 ft. elevation gain (to Scar Mountain summit).

Highest elevation 4,917 ft. and lowest 3,537 ft.

2.5 to 4.5 hours depending on destination.

Season: Open all year but mostly snow covered in winter months.

Getting There: Drive on US Hwy 20 west for a total of 25.7 miles, then make a slight right to merge onto OR-22 W for 7.9 miles. Turn left onto Parrish Lake Rd. for 3.2 miles. At a Y junction, stay right on NF-2266 for 1.3 miles and find the North Pyramid Trailhead parking on your left. (Total of 38 miles). No toilets.

Fees/Permits: None.

Restrictions: None

Source: Hike Oregon

Canyons and rims

  1. Tam McArthur (full day) – moderate to difficult

About the Hike: Tam McArthur Rim is one of the most popular hikes in Sisters and for good reason. It is moderate in difficulty and offers spectacular views of the Cascade mountains as well as some of the amazing blue-green alpine lakes nearby. You can choose to keep this hike short and family friendly at 5.6 miles round trip, or you can continue the trail around Broken Hand and go all the way to Broken Top and No Name Lake, making it a much more difficult hike at 11.5 miles roundtrip and 2,195 feet elevation gain.

The parking area is large but even so, the trailhead fills up and cars spill out onto the main gravel road during summer weekends even with the limited entry permit system that was put in place in 2020. It is recommended to do this hike on a weekday and/or very early in the morning!

Difficulty: Moderate. 5.6 miles round trip w/ 1,250 ft. elevation gain (to the end of Tam McArthur Rim Trail) 11.5 miles round trip w/ 2,195 ft. elevation gain (to No Name Lake). 2 hours 26 minutes w/ an average pace of 2.5 mph (to the end of Tam McArthur Rim Trail)

5 hours w/ an average pace of 2.3 mph (to No Name Lake).

Season: Typically, early June to late October.

Getting There: From Sisters take S. Elm Street which changes to Forest Service Road 16 at the edge of town (also known as Three Creek Rd.) Stay on this road for about 15 miles and find the trailhead parking on your right just as you arrive at the lake.

Fees/Permits: None

Restrictions: Dogs on leash

Source: HikeOregon.net

  1. Scout Camp (half day) – moderate

When you’ve climbed Black Butte, made it to the top – the very top – of Upper Chush Falls, notched Black Crater, and want even more, then the 50-minute bucolic ride to Scout Camp Loop Trail will slake your thirst for adventure in Sisters.

Getting there is a fantasy trip itself through pastoral hay and orchard grass fields, and sprawling cattle ranches. You’ll drive past an alpaca ranch with over 1,000 head of the lovable creatures who will come right up to the fence to say hi. Any map app takes you past a vineyard or two, a wildlife preserve, and a 570-acre deactivated diatomaceous earth mine with its otherworldly white crystalline dunes.

The trailhead has ample parking and the locals cannot recall it ever being full. The trail seldom shows up on any “best of” lists for Central Oregon, but once you get into the reviews of the most popular online trail blogs, all at once its prominence rises easily to the top five in all of Oregon.

It’s deceptive at only three miles. It’s not a walk in the woods. The lollipop loop starts out easy enough through generous junipers until you quickly reach the loop. BLM, on whose land it rests, asks that you go clockwise, and for good reason.

Now it’s down, way down — 718 feet — in very short order. Using a series of switchbacks as you wind your way deep into the canyons to the riverbed below, you are treated – make that blown away — by some of the most breathtaking views you’ll find anywhere in Oregon.

The hike follows the upper Deschutes River, full of fish and deep pools punctuated by roaring rapids. The river is walled on both sides by cliffs, some sheer, and many housing raptors and dozens of other bird species. 

This is not a hike to take with young children or dogs, or if you are afraid even a little of heights. Poles are helpful. At its closest point to the river, about 50 feet, you will have to boulder twice to continue. This can be a challenge and deal-breaker for some.

It is at this point where the Whychus, which runs through Sisters, now cascading, has its confluence with the Deschutes. It is teeming with birds and beauty. Plan to go early in the day especially in the summer months. For an optimal experience picnic on one of the many dramatic outcroppings.

Then head back to Sisters and revel in the memories that will last forever.

  1. Smith Rock (variable)  – easy to moderate

About the Hike: Smith Rock State Park is the second most visited place in Oregon after

Crater Lake hosting some 900,000 visitors a year. And with good reason. It’s drop dead

gorgeous, a truly majestic set of formations. The two most popular options are the Crooked River canyon trail and Misery Ridge. The former is a 2.5 mile out and back family favorite with breathtaking views of the sheer vertical canyon walls usually spotting climbers from around the wall scaling the hundreds of feet of rock. Waterfowl is abundant and a good portion of the walk is in the shade.

Misery Ridge is not at all miserable, but it is steep. The ascent is aided by natural stone

stairs. It’s only .68 miles to the 3,360-foot summit, a 722-foot gain. Once on top you are

feted to spectacular panoramic views and on most days, you can see all the way to Mt. Hood near Portland. You can make it a 3.7-mile loop trail by going down a series of switchbacks and connecting with the river trail. Talk about awesome!

Difficulty: Easy to moderate depending on section

Season: Open all year, except in winter storms.

Getting There: It’s 28 miles from Sisters and appears on any map app. It takes about 30-35 minutes. We like to go via the Lower Bridge routing – far more scenic and bucolic.

Fees/Permits: $5 day use fee or various annual permits.

Restrictions: Dogs on leash. No drones.

Warning: Rattle snakes inhabit the area but are generally not interested in you. Do not

approach when seen and do not agitate. They will move on. Most hikers never see one.


Lakes and meadows

 

1.     Patjens Lakes Loop (half day) - easy
Photo by Bill Bartlett
Photo by Bill Bartlett

Patjens Lake Loop Trail is in all its floral splendor, at least for the next week or two. The bear grass (Indian basket grass) is especially abundant standing as high as six feet. Likewise lupine, scarlet gilia, and Washington lily is in full glory.

Why go? It's an easy, mostly flat 6.9-mile loop with abundant flora and fauna from late June to early August. The trail starts and passes by Big Lake and works around the smaller Patjens Lake, both scenic and pastoral.

When to go? Like most trails in the peak of summer, the earlier the better to beat the heat. If you're a photographer you'll want to adjust your time to capture the best light. Also, earlier outings encounter fewer trail users.

What to expect? Nice views of Mt. Washington, the Three Sisters, Husband, Sand, and Scott mountains. It takes less than three hours with frequent stops to take in the beauty. Total elevation gain is around 632 feet, but it's gradual, nothing steep, on a soft path with few rocks. The highest elevation is 4,830 feet; the lowest is 4,350.

Due to unusually strong winds and deeper snow last winter, there will be a number of downed trees over which you will need to navigate, adding to the sense of accomplishment.

Bring mosquito repellent but you're not apt to need it depending on the amount of sun or wind. About half the hike is shaded.

Dogs may be off leash and the trail is shared with horses, however they are infrequent users say. It is open to campers. On a July 14, 8 a.m. start we had the trail to ourselves. Weekends are bound to encounter more traffic.

Directions: There is no right or wrong way but if you make an early start, going clockwise will keep the sun mostly to your back. About three-fourths of the hike is within the Mt. Washington Wilderness, adding to its tranquility.

Getting there: From Sisters drive west on Highway 20 to the Hoodoo exit at the summit. Follow the signs to the ski area and then turn left onto Big Lake Road. Follow it four miles to its end and the start of the trail. Parking in the summer is tight given the popularity of camping and boating at Big Lake.

What you'll need: A Northwest Forest Pass for parking and a free day-use wilderness permit for the trail. Overnight campers will need a Central Cascades Wilderness Permit between June 15 and October 15.

The trail and lake is inside the Willamette National Forest. Another great time to go is late September and early October when all of the colors start to change. There will be few ponderosa pines. Most of the area is proliferated by douglas fir, but as many as 15 other conifers are possible on the hike, many old-growth.

This is definitely a trail to add to your list.

2.     Little Three Creeks Lake (half day) - easy
Photo by Bill Bartlett
Photo by Bill Bartlett

It's a great trail for dogs, especially those fond of water.

Why go: The scenery varies from serene to dramatic. The elevation gain is a mild 212 feet. The lake itself is small, but not a pond. It's swimmable, albeit the mostly shallow water is quite cold. At an elevation of 6,700 feet, it gives one a clear sense of what a high Cascade lake is like.

When to go: Like nearly all the better hikes in our surrounds, May through October is best. Before or after is the possibility of snow or muddy remains. Likewise, earlier in the day gives you more solitude. If you're a shutterbug, the best light will be after 10:00.

What to expect: A good mix of trees – sylvan Alpine fir, mountain hemlock, and white bark pine are in abundance. As for trees, there will be some remains of the Pole Creek fire yielding surreal imagery that are prime photographic opportunities. Don't be surprised to find an abstract plein air artist trying to capture the many surrounding moods.

Early on are meadows, one particularly tranquil (shown above) with 7,700 feet Tam McArthur Rim in the background.

Upon reaching the lake you will be pleasantly surprised – maybe astonished – at its color. While perfectly clear it is a tapestry of hues, mostly green. Arising from the lake are several photogenic dead remains of once towering trees.

Go counterclockwise when you reach the lake unless you are prepared to ford the creek spilling out its eastern end. You can go the way round the lake but at about the halfway point (where the underground springs are visible bubbling into the lake) you will have the choice to circumnavigate the lake or divert to the boulder field caused by an avalanche many moons ago.

Upon diverting, within short order you will encounter the bus and truck size rocks and wonder in amazement at their being and their stacking randomness. You'll now be at the foot of the most dramatic section of the hike, and you can continue steeply upwards as much as you like, marveling along the way.

Or turn back at any point and enjoy the return views from different angles.

Getting there: Drive out Elm Street (FS Road 16) about 16 miles, the last two unpaved, and look for signs to Driftwood Campground on your right, 300 feet in, just before Three Creeks Lake. There's parking for roughly 30 cars.

What you'll need: Some nearby trails require a permit but not Little Three Creek. As it's not a long trek, a small water bottle is enough. You can't outguess the infrequent mosquitoes so carry repellent. A hat and sunscreen are common sense.

Strawberry Lake (all day) – difficult

xxx


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